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Ohiya sits at an elevation of roughly 1,856 metres in the Badulla District, a small highland village that most travellers pass through on the way to Horton Plains or the railway journey to Ella. What many miss is that Ohiya functions as a base for two distinct camping experiences, the official Forest Department campsite near the village itself, and the informal roadside spots along the Devil’s Staircase road that descends towards Kalupahana. The two differ in almost every practical respect, from permission requirements and facilities to the type of terrain you’ll be pitching on.
This guide covers both, along with the access routes, permission procedures, weather patterns, and supply considerations that determine whether an Ohiya camping trip goes smoothly or becomes an exercise in improvisation.
Two Different Camping Experiences at Ohiya
The distinction between the Forest Department site and the Devil’s Staircase roadside camping areas is not a matter of formality. It determines where you sleep, what you can expect to find when you arrive, and what you need to arrange before leaving Colombo.
The Forest Department campsite is a managed property with basic facilities and an on-site caretaker. It sits on a large meadow near Ohiya Railway Station and operates under a permission system administered from Battaramulla. The Devil’s Staircase spots are informal. They exist because the terrain along the old road offers flat ground, water access from streams, and views that justify the rough approach. No booking system governs them. No caretaker maintains them. Campers who use them do so on their own judgement.
The Forest Department Campsite at Ohiya
The official campsite occupies a large meadow at Ohiya, close to the railway station and within walking distance of the village. Reviews consistently describe it as spacious enough to hold hundreds of campers, though in practice the Department restricts access to authorised groups.
Facilities include washrooms, a water supply, a barbecue area, and a fire pit. A small creek flows nearby where campers can bathe, though the water is cold enough that it functions more as a bracing wake-up than a comfortable wash. There is also a rudimentary lodge on the property containing two bunk beds, accommodating up to four people. It is basic but adequate as a fallback if weather makes tent camping impractical.
The caretakers at the site are described in visitor reviews as friendly and helpful, which matters because the site has no formal reception or check-in process. Your permission documentation is what establishes your right to camp there.
Permission
Camping at the Forest Department site requires prior written permission from the Department in Battaramulla. This is not a same-day arrangement. The Department’s office at Battaramulla handles forest reserve permissions, and visitors to other Forest Department campsites report being advised to apply at least two to three weeks before the intended date. The same lead time applies here.
Booking
When applying, you will typically need to provide names, addresses, NIC numbers, and telephone numbers for all group members. The permission covers a specified period, and campers should carry a printed copy of the approval with them.
Do not assume that arriving at Ohiya and asking the caretaker will work. The site operates on the basis of pre-arranged permission, and the caretaker’s role is to maintain the property rather than to process admissions.
- Permission authority: Forest Department, Battaramulla
- Lead time: Apply at least two to three weeks in advance
- Information required: Names, addresses, NIC numbers, and telephone numbers of all campers
- On-site facilities: Washrooms, water supply, barbecue area, fire pit, small lodge with bunk beds for up to four people
- Water source: Small creek nearby; treat before drinking
- Location: Near Ohiya Railway Station
Camping Along the Devil’s Staircase
The Devil’s Staircase is a roughly 14-kilometre route connecting Ohiya with Kalupahana, descending through tea estates and forest on a road that is steep, uneven, and in places damaged. The route is passable by 4WD vehicle, safari jeep, or motorbike; ordinary cars cannot manage the surface. On foot, the full traverse takes most of a day.
Camping spots exist along this route. The most prominent is the Waliwanguwa campsite, located by a bend in the Waliwanguwa stream with views towards Lanka Ella. The main site accommodates three to four tents, and there are several more secluded spots nearby that require a short uphill walk for greater privacy.
These roadside campsites are not managed or maintained. There are no washrooms, no water supply, and no caretaker. Campers using them rely entirely on what they carry and on the streams for water, which requires treatment before drinking. The appeal is the isolation and the views across the valley and hills.
Access Routes to the Devil’s Staircase Camping Areas
Two routes reach the camping spots along the Devil’s Staircase.
From Ohiya, the route follows the old road down through tea estates. This is the adventurous approach, steep and bumpy, and only suitable for 4WD vehicles or motorbikes. The road has been under construction, and conditions change. Checking current status with the Road Development Authority or local sources before travelling is advisable.
From Kalupahana, the approach is easier and accessible by car or van. At the end of the road, you cross a small stream; vans can manage this crossing. From there, a short walk or drive brings you to the campsite areas. This is the recommended route for campers without a 4WD vehicle.
Distances and times vary with road conditions. The 4WD traverse of the full Devil’s Staircase route takes approximately four hours due to the slow pace required by the surface. Hikers should plan for a full day.
What to Expect at the Roadside Sites?
The camping areas along the Devil’s Staircase are informal. You will not find marked pitches, designated fire rings, or any facilities. The ground ranges from open meadow to forest floor. Leeches are present in the meadow areas during wet periods, and rain and mist are frequent at this elevation.
Water comes from streams. All stream water should be treated before drinking, as the catchments above include tea estates, village land, and forest where contamination is possible.
Because these sites are unmanaged, there is no booking system and no fee. Campers simply use the ground. This also means no one enforces quiet hours or waste disposal. The expectation is that you carry out everything you carry in.
Weather & Timing
Ohiya’s elevation shapes the camping season more than any other factor. At roughly 1,856 metres, the climate is cool by Sri Lankan standards, and rainfall is substantial throughout the year.
March is generally the most favourable month for visiting, with daytime temperatures around 29°C and nighttime temperatures near 20°C. Rainfall in March averages around 169 mm, which is lower than most months but still significant. June to August offers an alternative window, though stronger winds can make camping less comfortable.
May and the period from October to December bring very heavy rain, with monthly totals ranging from 380 mm to over 550 mm in November. April and September are also wet. Camping during these months is possible but requires waterproof equipment and a willingness to accept that mist and rain may dominate the experience.
The dry season, such as it is, runs roughly from January through March. This is when the meadow at the Forest Department site is at its best, and when leeches are less of a problem at the Devil’s Staircase sites. Visitor reviews consistently advise going in the dry season.
Supplies & Preparation
Ohiya has limited retail. The village is small, and what is available is basic. Campers should carry all food, fuel, and water treatment supplies from a larger town such as Haputale, Nuwara Eliya, or Bandarawela.
For the Forest Department site, the presence of a fire pit and barbecue area means cooking is possible on-site if you bring fuel and utensils. For the Devil’s Staircase sites, you will need a portable stove; open fires are possible but depend on conditions and local restrictions.
Warm clothing is not optional at this elevation. Nights are cool year-round, and mist can make daytime temperatures feel lower than the recorded figures suggest. Rain protection, sturdy footwear, and a tent that handles wind and sustained rain are standard requirements.
Water treatment tablets, a filter, or a means of boiling are necessary for any water sourced from streams or the creek. The Forest Department site has a water supply, but its potability is not guaranteed.
Other Camping Options in the Ohiya Area
The Bambarakanda Falls area, further down the Devil’s Staircase towards Kalupahana, has three camping areas near the second stage of the falls, plus a larger site in the pine forest. These are popular and can fill up during peak periods. The approach is from the Kalupahana side.
Horton Plains National Park has designated campsites managed by the Department of Wildlife Conservation, not the Forest Department. These require separate booking through the Wildlife Department office in Battaramulla. The campsites are basic, and campfires are prohibited. Gas burners are permitted for cooking.
These options are distinct from the Ohiya Forest Department site and the Devil’s Staircase roadside spots. Each has its own permission system, facilities, and access conditions.